REMOVING A "COLLECTIBLE" FROM MOTHBALLS

GETTING IT READY FOR SALE, AUCTION, SHOW, OR TOURING
by Milton J. Webb

It takes more than a can of gas and a new battery to prepare a "collectible" to go on the road, sale, or an auction!

You always hear, "It ran OK 10 years ago!" In my experience, it takes all the checks, cleaning, repairs, and adjustments outlined below to get through the first mile!

Our Museum cars receive the following services in preparation for parades and special events.

Here's how!

STARTING SYSTEM

Install a new battery, using correct ground polarity. Remove and clean ground strap bolt on the frame. Install a ground strap from the frame to an engine or transmission bolt. Use a heavy woven-style cable or a #1 gauge cable with flat ends. Loosen one bolt on the starter and re-tighten. This breaks corrosion, if any.

Remove and disassemble the starter switch. Sand the contacts to shiny clean. Remove starter cable nut at starter. Tighten bottom nut to just snug.

Install new #1 gauge cables, from the battery to the starter switch and from the switch to the starter. Old cables are usually corroded even when you cannot see the green.

Caution: Do not use 12-volt cables on a six volt system. Twelve-volt cables will get warm or hot during crank, plus the cranking may be very slow.

It is best to test the starting system with a digital voltmeter. For best results, acceptable six-volt system voltage drops during cranking readings are:

Cable, batt. to starter switch 0.2 volt max
Starter switch, post-post 0.2 volt max
Cable, starter switch to starter 0.2 volt max
Cable, batt. neg.[–] to engine 0.2 volt max
Batt. pos. [+] to neg. [–] 4.5 min [cold]
Battery, positive to negative 5.0 min [hot]
Starter draw [6-volt] 400 amps max
On 12-volt systems, the battery voltage drop during cranking should be 10 volts or more. The starter draw on 12-volt systems should be less than 250 amps.

See Figure 1 on "How to Make Voltage Drop Measurements".

For better starter switch durability on 6-volt systems, install a 6-volt solenoid. Use the starter button for the solenoid "control" switch. See Figure 2 on "hooking up a solenoid".

If the starter is "sluggish" at this point, try spraying some electronic or motor cleaner on the starter commutator during crank.

If the current draw is over 400 amps on a 6-volt system, have the starter re-built. In a 12-volt system have the starter re-built if the current draw is over 250 amps.

IGNITION SYSTEM

Test the ignition system by holding a plug wire ¼ inch from ground. Crank the engine with the key on. The spark is very good if it is blue and will jump at least ¼ inch. It's better if it jumps 3/8 inch. If it's orange, it will be a weak spark. Test and service the ignition system as follows:

Make sure the wiring is intact and the insulation is intact. If it's brittle or has arcing spots on the surface, replace the ignition primary and secondary wiring [plug wires].

Check the cap and rotor. If bad, [corrosion or cracks], replace. If the rotor tip to distributor cap lugs clearance is over 1/32 inch, replace the cap and rotor.

Disconnect the coil primary and secondary wires. Using an ohmmeter, the coil primary circuit should read 1.0 - 1.5 ohms on a 6-volt coil and around 5000 - 10000 ohms between one primary lug and the coil tower. On a 12-volt system, the coil resistance should be 0.5 ohms and 6000 - 10000 ohms.

Test the voltage to the coil with the distributor primary wire disconnected. On a 6-volt system the open circuit voltage should be the same as battery voltage [6.3 volts]. On a 12-volt system, the open circuit voltage to the coil should be 12.6 volts.

When removing a distributor for service, position number one cylinder at TDC on the firing stroke. Mark the rotor and distributor position with chalk. Remove the distributor watching the rotor stay in one position or rotating slightly as you lift it up.

Disconnect the condenser. Disassemble the points, vacuum advance, and distributor plate.

Check the primary wiring grommet insulation to the distributor plate using an ohmmeter. The ohmmeter should read infinity ("1" or "OL" on the highest resistance scale] between the points [open] and ground on the plate. If resistance or continuity exists, replace the insulation or point mounting plate. [SeeFigure 3 for testing resistance.]

This is a key item. If resistance exists, on this test, a weak or no spark will prevent startup!

Check, clean, and oil the mechanical advance weights and springs. Make sure the distributor and point cam rotates freely by holding the top and bottom distributor shaft tip and twisting. Use WD40 or solvent to clean out residual rust or gum stuff.

Install distributor plate. Install new points, a new primary flex wire pigtail, a new ground flex wire, and a new condenser. Make sure point lock nut and pigtail nuts are tightened during installation. Check the pigtail to ensure it will not touch any metal as the vacuum advance rotates the distributor plate.

Install correct flex wire pigtails. Regular stranded wires may break. Check ignition parts houses and catalogs.

Test the vacuum advance by sucking on the vacuum port and holding the suction with your tongue. Make sure there is no leak in the vacuum advance chamber. If left unchecked or it leaks, gas mileage and part throttle pep suffers.

Rub a small amount of "cam lube" or "dielectric grease" on the cam leaving a small blob behind the point arm rubbing block.

Adjust the point gap to 0.002 more than the specified gap. This allows for wear when new.

On dual point ignition wired in parallel adjust point gap to specs, as specified. This system provides a longer dwell time for better coil saturation. If not sychronized, tourgh idle or pinging will be the result.

On dual ignition [two separate ignition systems], follow manufacturer's specs and procedures for gap and synchronization of both systems.

Install distributor with rotor in the same position as during removal [cylinder one at TDC on power stroke].

Connect wiring. Install a ballast resistor, as specified, before the coil. Connect the coil primary wires as specified in wiring diagrams.

Generally, the point side of the coil connection is the same polarity as the battery ground. If the battery ground is [+], the coil [+] primary connects to the distributor terminal. If it's negative ground at the battery [–] primary connects to the distributor point terminal.

This is generally true for 6-or 12-volt systems, but review wiring diagrams for accuracy.

If this is not wired correctly, coil available and reserve voltage may be low resulting in ignition misfire under load.

Locate the timing marks. Clean, sand plates or vibration damper, and mark the correct point [degrees] for base timing. Review old service manuals for timing mark locations.

Set the timing after startup to specification. On a 6-volt system power the timing light with a 12-volt battery and hook up number one plug wire on the secondary. Measure the advance at 2500 RPM with an adjustable timing light, if equipped with mechanical advance and vacuum advance. The range is 30-50O advance for most cars.

If you are using a non-adjustable timing light, mark the damper at TDC with chalk. Measure 45O advance from TDC [½ of 90O ]. Rev engine and watch mark move towards the 45O mark as you rev the engine.

Disconnect the vacuum advance. The timing mark should retard around ½ the advance at 2500 RPM. If so, you just proved both the mechanical and vacuum advance are working.

ENGINE CHECKS

Adjust the tappet clearance to specification.

Remove the spark plugs and measure the compression. Continually crank the engine until the compression pressure has built up four times. Record the compression pressure of each cylinder. A good engine should crank up to 90% of the specified pressure. If the variation from cylinder to cylinder is over 10%, consider a valve job.

Insert a couple of oil squirts into each cylinder. Crank for 30 seconds. Then check compression again.

If compression is still uneven, valves are burnt or sticking open. If all cylinders increase far above the "dry" check, the rings may be weak. After running engine, test compression again.

If there's no starter, remove the spark plugs. Crank each cylinder through compression with your thumb covering the plug hole. If the pressure is about equal in all cylinders, the valves are probably OK. Also, visually look down each plug hole at top of valves. If they are the same color, the odds are they're good enough to start the engine.

Drain the oil. Install the specified number of quarts of 20-50 weight oil. Install a new oil filter, if equipped.

If the old oil is "jelly" or "syrup" let it drain overnight.

Install pan plug using a small amount of RTV gasket maker on the washer.

After start up, let engine warm up for one minute at around 1000 RPM.

Increase the RPM to 1500 and hold it steady. Then, short each cylinder, one at a time, to detect rod bearing knock. If the rod knock(s) continues with a warm engine, the rods are slightly loose. If the rod knock(s) continues with a warm engine, adjust babbitt poured rods to 0.002 inches clearance.

If you can hear "chirping" or rod knock, install new "insert" bearings, if equipped.

In both cases, the crankpin must have less than 0.001 out of round or taper. Refer to engine re-build manuals for correct bearing service procedures and specifications.

Drain coolant water and re-fill. Add a cup of Sta-Lube "soluble oil" [order from NAPA stores].

If the car is equipped with a pressure cap, refill with 50% coolant antifreeze and water.

If the tubes are rusted on the top end, remove radiator and have it professionally flow-checked and flushed at a radiator shop.

FUEL SYSTEM

In the fuel system, checks should include the fuel tank, fuel lines, filter, carburetor, and intake manifold leaks.

Start at the fuel tank. If it's full of flaky rust inside, or there is "algae" and/or it has rust holes in the bottom, have it restored professionally or replace it.

On "gravity" fuel systems disassemble the fuel sediment bowl, clean in muriatic acid and replace the filter screen.

Use aviation, gas-resistant sealant on the threads. Do not get sealant inside gas passages. Do not use "Teflon" tape. Gasoline will dissolve the tape, and it may get inside, causing flooding problems.

Pour in one gallon of gas and test for leaks and flow out the sediment bowl. Route the fuel line parallel to the frame rail away from exhaust heat. This routing will minimize heat transfer into the fuel line. Other routings may cause fuel foaming ["vapor lock"].

Disassemble carburetor and clean in carburetor cleaner.

Install new gasket kit, needle and seat, and power valve [diaphragm-type].

Carburetor repair books and gasket kits detail bench adjustments. They also show "exploded" views of parts.

On mechanical pump system measure fuel pressure and flow. Compare to specifications. Most of the world is 3-6 psi and around ½ cup in 15 seconds while cranking..

If the fuel pump is "old" replace it! The old residual gas has already ruined it.

If the needle valve seat can be removed, replace it with a new "Viton" tip needle and seat.

Test the float [brass] in hot water. If small bubbles escape while immersed, the float is defective. Replace it!

Many older carburetors use a cork float. If intact, sand lightly with 320 grit sand paper. Coat with gas-resistant epoxy [Hobby Poxy #1]. Wipe off excess before the epoxy cures. Coat a second time. Wipe again. Check weight before and after each coating. Less than 0.1 ounce increase in weight is OK. If more, start again with a new cork float.

A new cork float must be coated with very light coats of gas-resistant epoxy. The same technique discussed above applies to new cork floats. If the float gets too heavy, it will sink, causing flooding!

Gas-resistant? Try it out; soak a small amount of cured epoxy in gas. It if softens, try another brand.

Adjust float level exactly to specifications.

Re-assemble and install carburetor. Adjust main circuit mixture [if equipped] and idle mixture [see "Startup" section].

TRANSMISSION AND DIFFERENTIAL

Drain gear oil. Install 85-140 gear oil to the fill plug level on manual transmissions and differential.

Drain torque converter and transmission fluid on automatics.

Install specified fluid into automatic transmissions.

Follow specified procedures , quantity , and type to fill automatic transmissions during startup. Generally, install ½ the fluid volume. Then the remaining fluid is added to the low/add line. Shift through the gears and re-check level, HOT.

STEERING AND FRONT AXLE

Start with the steering gear box. Fill the steering box with 85-140 wt gear oil.

If it leaks out, try chassis grease, pumping it into the fill hole.

Tighten the mounting bolts. Many times they are loose!

Check the pitman arm on the shaft. Many times this nut and arm are loose on the steering shaft. Check the shaft key for slop. Oil threads and tighten to around 75 pound feet torque and re-install the cotter pin.

Test the drag link ball caps for looseness by turning the steering wheel free play [wheels on ground]. Put your finger between the cap and the steering arm. If there is "slop" [more than 1/32 inch], remove cap and grind flat face. Re-install cap and re-check for clearance [less than 1/32 inch]. If OK, disassemble, grease with moly lube, tighten bolts and jamb nuts, insert cotter pins. Test for binding (lock to lock) with wheels off the ground.

If drag link binds, loosen bolts slightly, tighten jamb nuts, and insert new cotter pins. Check for binding again. Repeat drag link cap check on the right end steering link.

On the rod ends, with a taper fit, test for slop. If any looseness is detected, replace tie rod end.

Check and oil the tie rod ends. If more than 1/32 inch clearance, replace pins and bushings.

Check the radius rod "wishbone" ball [if equipped] and cap. If less than 1/64 inch play side-to-side when turning the steering wheel [front wheels on ground], grease wishbone ball cap, tighten and /or replace studs, spring, and nuts. The wishbone ball must be tight in the socket with no side-to-side play.

Safety wire both studs to each other. Do not use cotter pins. Ball joint studs may work loose and unscrew.

Remove and inspect the front wheel bearings and grease seals. Clean bearings in solvent ["paint thinner", not lacquer thinner]. Blow dry with air and then wash in solvent, again. If rollers are pitted, replace bearings and cups [races].

Grease bearings using moly wheel bearing grease. Install inner wheel bearing and new grease seals in hubs. Install hub on spindle shaft and install outer wheel bearing.

Tighten axle nut until snug and back off until light bearing play exists. Tighten nut to line up cotter pin slots. Bearing play should be just snug without wheel binding.

Turn wheel [off ground]. If it stops abruptly, loosen nut one more notch and re-test for free turning.

Lastly, test the spindle and bushings [king pins] for end [up and down] play and for vertical plane play.

In the vertical plane check [wheels off ground], grab the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle in and out. If the in and out movement at the spindle [king pin] bushing is more than 1/64 inch [0.015"] the spindle pin bushings are very loose and should be replaced.

Next, test the bushing end play [up and down movement in the vertical plane]. The end play clearance should be zero. Test by placing a tire iron under the tire [wheels off the ground]. If end play clearance is greater than 0 [like 0.005" or 0.010", 0.015" is 1/64 inch], replace king pins, bearings, and end play shims.

Oil the oil caps at top of spindle bolt with motor oil. If oil drips to ground out of bottom bushing, oil holes are open. If not, disassemble spindle bushing bolt, clean oil holes and re-assemble. Test for end play, align spindle jamb nut, use moly chassis grease on zerk fittings, and install cotter pin.

Grease the grease fittings with moly lube.

Test for camber, caster, and toe-in ["gather"] on solid axle cars. Make a "plumb bob" with a string and a nut tied to one end. Measure camber by holding the string at the top outer surface of tire. Move forward until string clears the hub cap. The horizontal measurement at the bottom should be around ¼ inches, wheels on the ground. This is around ½ degree of positive camber.

Measure the "gather" [toe-in] by holding a tape measure the inside front rim edge about halfway up from the ground. Measure distance to same spot on other rim. Move the tape measure to the inside rear rim edge. The "toe-in" should be around 1/16 - 3/16 inch. For example, if the front measures 53½ inches and the back is 531/2 inches, the toe-in is 1/8 inch.

Many times, the toe-in measurement will be ½ inch toe-in or up to ½ inch toe-out! Needless to say, the car will wander all over if the above measurements are incorrect.

Review the service manuals for detailed procedures to measure camber, caster, and toe [gather]. Toe is adjustable.

On cars equipped with camber, caster adjustments, and/or ball joints, let the professionals perform the alignment on the front end.

WHEELS

In 1998, the wheels with metal felloes rims may be up to 78 years old! Wood felloe and wood outer rim wheels may be 88 years old!

That's old! If the spokes are loose in any way, consider having them re-spoked by a pro-fessional wheelwright advertised in the hobby magazines.

The wheel(s) may be slightly out of true in the vertical plane. A 1/8 inch out of true wobble is OK; but if greater, consider re-spoking the wheel.

You have read about wheels folding up on curves and causing accidents. It's worth the price to your family, friends, and relates, in-laws and outlaws to make safety a top issue!

Donot try shimming, epoxy, or resin to "tighten" up the spokes. The heat from the brakes may melt the glue to honey, run out all over the brake, and then collapse!

On steel rim wheels used from around 1930 and newer, check for out of round and cracks. The tolerance is acceptable, if not over 1/16 inch in the vertical and/or out of round. "NUFF" SAID!

REAR AXLE, DRIVE SHAFT AND BRAKE CHECKS

On closed drive shafts, grease the drive shaft bushing cup or grease fitting with moly grease. If equipped with a cup, turn it in ½ turn for every trip. The front drive shaft bushing without grease is a "high wear" item.

Test the rear axle up and down play with wheels off the ground. Any play up and down up to 0.005 inches is OK. Test the wheels with a tire iron on the bottom side of the tire using the iron as a lever. Lift it up and down. If it's over 0.005 inches, it's loose! If equipped, grease with moly lube. Pump the gun three times. Excess grease will ooze out the grease seal and will get on the brake lining.

On tapered axle shafts, jack up one side. Install a "knock-out" on opposite axle shaft. Tighten knock-out. Strike heavy blows on end of knock-out with a "sledge" hammer. If really tight, re-check knock-out. If, after five hard blows, it is not loose, install a "wheel puller" to remove hub.

While the bearing is out, check the axle end play. If over 1/32 inch [0.031"], it's excessive. If left this way, the axle may shift in and out causing the drum to rub the brake lining edges. It may squeal!

Grease the rear axle bearing with heavy duty wheel bearing grease or moly grease. Install bearings. Install new grease seals.

If you cannot find new seals for your specific car make, take the old seals to any bearing retailer. They can usually match up the old with the new by using dimensions [I.D., O.D., and thickness].

Check the brake shoe lining.

If grease is on the brake lining surface or lining is worn to the rivet heads, replace lining. Do not use bonded lining on old "soft" drums. The drums will score. Use original-style lining and rivets. Follow specifications for correct thickness, width, and length. Review old car manuals for procedures and adjustments.

Recently [1997], I had my Model T 11-inch brakes relined with a "molded Kevlar" lining used in industrial brake applications. The brand name is Redco Heavy Duty Woven Lining. This Kevlar lining will withstand higher temperatures before fade than Model T brake lining. If it fades, the brakes will recover faster upon cooling. This Kevlar is soft enough so drum wear will be normal. After 100 miles, the brakes seated and stopping power is superb with minimum fade.

In all cases, have the lining professionally drilled and riveted with brake machinery. Don't skimp and do it "by hand"! It will work loose! There goes your safety factor!

Oil brake arm cam lever bushings. Put a thin film of moly grease on the brake lever cam surfaces [top and bottom]. Install lining. Oil all brake rod or cable pivot points.

On hydraulic brakes hone wheel cylinders and install new seal and dust cover kits. If cylinder is pitted, have it re-built.

Prepare rear axles. Remove axle burrs and shine taper surfaces with 80 grit-type sand paper. Peen the outer end of the axle keyway. Insert the axle key by tapping into the burr. You don't want this to move when installing the wheel hub. Clean axle threads with nut to clean thread.

Oil axle surface, axle thread, and nut for a better torque.

Install hub and drum. Rotate drum. If you hear a metal scraping, it may be the brake lining edge rubbing the drum. Remove hub and install an axle shim coated with oil. Re-check for scraping sound.

The oiled axle shaft surfaces will provide a better seating of the hub on the axle. Install the nut, and snug lightly [for now].

With brake rods disconnected, adjust the brakes to a light drag.

Follow manufacturer's specifications when re-connecting brake rods. Check cross shaft-lever-arm angles. If this is not right, brake performance will be poor.

As new brake lining high spots wear in, re-adjust brakes for equal drag.

If all the above adjusts out as discussed above, tighten brake rod clevis jam nuts and install cotter pins in clevis pins.

Torque the rear axle nuts to 75 foot pounds, align the cotter pin slots, and insert the cotter pin.

Drain and fill the differential case to bottom edge of fill plug hole with 85-140 weight gear oil.

LUBRICATION

Follow the manufacturer's specification on lubrication. If engine and running gear are lubricated, wear is minimized.

Beware, after long storage, grease congeals in joints. Ports in grease fittings or cups may plug up. Oil cup ports plug up. Dissassemble and clean all lubrication ports. Wash out old grease with solvent.

Beware, many spring and steering systems and joints may be dry and rusty after many years

I have experienced systems that were cleaned only during restoration or after long storage, but never dissassembled for wear inspection and lubricatin durng re-assembly! If you find one joint with rust, no grease or a plugged up oil port, you can bet most joints will be in this condition.

Good lubrication leads to long and safe touring.

START UP

Now, for the big test! If all the above has been performed with good repair practice and adjusted to specification, your car should start in 5-10 seconds and almost be ready to drive on tour! The order of start up and drive events are as follows:

Adjust mixture, engine off, to specs
Crank and start
Adjust mixture and spark advance
Test for rod knocks
Drive car, test shifting and clutch
Drive car, test brakes
Drive car, test for "wabble"
Test for overheating
Clean car, detail it, or
Drive car on tour!
Turn on gas and adjust mixture. Hook up battery.
With gas at half throttle and spark in full- retarded position, crank engine for five seconds. During crank, choke for up to two seconds.

On hand crank models, use the same throttle and retarded spark settings as previously discussed. With ignition off, pull crank through three times with full choke. Release choke. Turn on ignition, leave spark retarded, and crank to start.

Upon start up, be prepared to choke slightly as the engine begins to rev up. If it's "sputtering", open choke [no choke] to let it rev up more. Advance spark. To lean the mixture, turn mixture knob clockwise until the engine "smooths out".

If engine is equipped with oil pressure, note gauge reading. It should be at or above specifications. Note also, what the pressure is when hot and at idle.

Return to idle slowly. Adjust idle throttle screw and mixture rod to maintain good idle smoothness.

Adjust idle mixture, if equipped, to peak RPM at idle.

During warm up, rev engine to around 1200 RPM. Leave it at a steady RPM. Listen for knock(s).

Short [with a screwdriver], one spark plug at a time. That cylinder should drop in RPM. Simultaneously, listen for knock while spark plug is shorted. If the knock goes away while shorting out the cylinder, the rod is loose.

Perform the same test on the remaining cylinders.

After a long warm up, perform the same rod knock test, again. If it still knocks, the rod(s) is/(are) very loose.

In addition, test for main bearing knock by holding at 1/3 throttle and spark advanced halfway. Short spark plugs simultaneously, on both sides of main bearing. If the knock goes away, adjust the center main after you adjust the rods. If you have any doubt about knocks, review the engine manuals for procedures.

Sometimes, single disk clutches will stick on the transmission spline or to the flywheel surface. Adjust clutch for one inch of "free" play with engine off. Release clutch. Try moving clutch plate back and forth with a screwdriver. If you hear a "click", it just popped loose!

On multiple disk clutches, the disks may not release upon startup. To test for neutral while running with one wheel jacked up, pull brake lever back slowly to neutral. Note RPM change, if any. Then continue to pull increasing brake drag. Engine RPM should not change and transmission neutral is OK.

If engine slows down during this maneuver, clutch disks are hung up and/or oil is congealed on disks' surfaces. Try this brake on/off procedure for 10 minutes.

If it [neutral] still does not work, change oil again. Repeat above steps. If it still hangs up, remove, disassemble engine and transmission to repair clutch.

READY FOR ROAD TEST

Now the big plunge! You're ready for the road!

If you are not experienced in driving collector cars, ask an experienced friend who regularly drives on tours to drive your car the first time.

Engage reverse gear gently and back out of the driveway.

Take off slowly in first gear, shift to second, and then high gear. Note how smooth the shift is! If it chatters, the clutch disk may be "hanging up" or it may have oil on it.

You have been applying the brakes gently, noting pull. At 30 MPH in high gear, let up on throttle and push foot brake to lock the wheels [panic stop]. Be prepared for a pull to right or left.

If it pulls to the right, adjust the left clevis pin one turn tighter and re-install cotter pin. Try panic stop again. If you cannot get equal pull, re-line brakes as discussed in brake section.

Test for shimmy at low speed.

Proceed over chuck holes slowly [5 MPH]. If shimmy develops, re-check front end looseness and alignment checks, as outlined in the "Front Axle" section.

Test the radiator. If it boils on a cool day during these pre-tour tests, consider a "flat tube" radiator re-core or a new radiator.

CLEANING FOR SALE

A sparkling clean car is easier to sell even if the "cosmetics" are not the best. If the dirt, oil, and grease is slight, start by washing the grease and oil off the undercarriage and engine with solvent [paint thinner, not lacquer thinner]. Spray with engine de-greaser and let it sit for at least 30 minutes. Cover distributor and carburetor with plastic. Hose off with water. Apply [engine de-greaser] a second time to get it clean.

Wash the engine and chassis with liquid detergent. Wash under the fenders and the inner and outer wheel and tire surfaces.

Scrub tire rubber with a brush and liquid detergent. Finish off the tire rubber with a "tire black" liquid to make it shine while still wet with water. This makes a nice, clean look without over shine when dry.

Clean whitewalls with SOS pads. Finish off with a tire cleaner bleach. Scrub until they are white! There's nothing more distracting than yellow tires!

Scrub the chrome or nickel with cleanser or pumice powder. Now wash the car's outer surfaces with car wash soap. Keep water and soap below the windows to minimize water getting inside the doors. Dry the surfaces with a chamois. Wipe the top area and glass with a chamois. Polish the chrome with chrome polish. Polish the nickel with a metal polish. If rust pits are still present, use a mild rubbing compound to polish the rust away. Re-apply chrome or nickel polish to shine it.

Clean top material with car wash soap using a heavy towel. If really crusty dirty, scrub with a brush and car wash soap. Use "tire black" on a moist towel to shine and make it black.

In my experience, tire black works better than a vinyl cleaner.

Polish the car with a cleaner polish. Do not use wax or a silicone polish. The new owner may want to re-paint the car. Just makes it look clean and "spruced up"!

Lightly clean the upholstery [seats and panels] with a foam cleaner. Scrub it with a soft, wet [water only] wrung out towel. Let it dry allowing the foam cleaner to "work", then vacuum.

Vacuum the headliner, seats, and panels until no dust comes out as you pound the seat cushions. Clean the floor mats [carpet or rubber]. While the mats and seat cushions are out, vacuum the floor pan. Include the trunk area. Wipe it clean with detergent and a wet rag.

If the floor pan is crusty with lots of dirt, check for drainage crevices and lightly spray with water. Wipe out the dirt flakes as it drains and drys.

Wipe all sill areas and door jambs with detergent and water. Clean off latch areas with solvent. Re-grease [lightly] latches so the doors close easily and solid.

Clean all windows, inside and out, with glass cleaner. Do it twice to make it sparkle and "squeaky clean". Everyone likes to look through clean glass.

All the above, is just to make your car presentable. Depending on how dirty the car is, this could take up to two days! If you're going for show or want it spotless, review appropriate books for concours quality cleaning. It will take many days.

SELLING YOUR CAR

Review old car price guides, auction results, or newspaper ads to determine the price range. Try and judge your car according to the definitions in the guide. Review want ads in collectible car magazines and local newspapers to determine a reasonable starting point for a dollar value.

Have the car professionally appraised to check your price range.

All this will give you a reasonable place to start your selling negotiations.

A sparkling clean well-running car will sell much quicker at a higher price than an unattended car!